Place du Tertre at a Glance
Located in the Clignancourt neighborhood just steps from the Sacré-Cœur, Place du Tertre stands as one of the most visited and iconic spots in the French capital. Despite the steady flow of crowds, the former village of Montmartre retains a distinct character, anchored by its festive atmosphere, open-air artist square, and shaded cafe terraces.
Opened in the 17th century, the square takes its name from its geography, since a tertre is a flat-topped hill. Back then, it already served as a favorite gathering spot for the bohemian community in Paris, drawing singer-songwriters, poets, and painters alike. Legends like Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, Modigliani, and Utrillo all lived here.
During the 1990s, the square became the center of a tense legal battle between portrait artists and the city government over public space. The artist square was eventually capped at 140 spots, allowing two artists to rotate on a daily basis. At number 6, check out the restaurant À la Mère Catherine, founded in 1783. Number 3 houses the former Mairie de Montmartre, and number 7 marks the home of sculptor Maurice Drouard, whose face is featured on a commemorative plaque.
If you want to shop for independent designer goods, wander the maze of winding streets in the nearby quartier des Abbesses to browse small shops and soak in the cinematic neighborhood vibe made famous by the movie Amélie.
What can I say, there are just so many people. This small, ultra-touristy area of Montmartre is a victim of its own success, as the crowds in these few streets are insane! People are packed in around the artists, the terraces are overflowing, and it is even hard to push your way through. That said, you can still find quieter streets, and the atmosphere and pedestrian-friendly setting of the site are worth the trip. Try to come during the week since there are a few less people.