Odeon of Herodes Atticus: When Antiquity Hosts Your Summer Nights
The lights dim. Five thousand spectators hold their breath in the warm Athens night. Above the Pentelic marble tiers, the illuminated Parthenon keeps watch over the stage. For nearly two millennia, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus has offered the same thrill: the feeling of occupying the exact seat of a spectator from the year 161.
Why attend a performance at the Odeon?
Herodes Atticus, a wealthy Roman senator and patron of Athens, commissioned this theater in memory of his wife Regilla, who passed away in the year 160. Construction lasted about a decade. Originally, a cedar roof covered the entire structure, making it an odeon in the strictest sense, a venue for concerts rather than an open-air theater.
Destroyed by the Heruli in 267, the monument sat dormant for centuries before undergoing restoration between 1952 and 1953. Since 1955, it has hosted the Athens-Epidaurus Festival, one of the oldest performing arts festivals in Europe. Maria Callas, Frank Sinatra, Luciano Pavarotti, Elton John, and more recently Sting, have all performed here.
The architecture: 5,000 seats carved into rock
The 81-meter diameter cavea follows the southwest slope of the Acropolis. White marble rows rise to a height of 28 meters. The stage measures over 35 meters wide, and the remnants of the three-story facade suggest the immense scale of the original project.
The acoustics remain striking. Even from the upper rows, every violin note and every line of dialogue arrives with perfect clarity. Athenians have a saying: no matter where you are sitting, the sound will find you.
The experience: before, during, and after the show
Before the show
The walk to the Odeon is part of the ritual. The pedestrian street Dionysiou Areopagitou runs along the south slope of the Acropolis. Vendors selling handmade jewelry, street musicians, and the scent of roasted corn and cotton candy accompany your stroll under the glowing sky of the Athenian twilight.
Pro tip: high heels are prohibited in the venue to protect the antique marble. Wear flat shoes. The seats have no backrests and retain heat from the day, so a foldable cushion rented at the entrance can save your night.
During the show
Performances usually begin at 9:00 PM, when the heat subsides. Most last between two and three hours, often without an intermission. Avoid the central seats furthest from the aisles if you think you might need to get up. Doors close at the start of the performance, and you can only enter during an intermission if one is scheduled.
After the show
Athenians extend their evening with a late dinner in the Koukaki neighborhood, just a few minutes away on foot. Restaurants remain open until past midnight, sometimes even later.
Programming: what can you see?
The Athens-Epidaurus Festival offers a lineup every summer from June to October that blends opera, ballet, ancient tragedies, symphonic concerts, and contemporary artists. The Greek National Opera regularly presents its major productions here. In 2025, the festival celebrates its 70th anniversary with an especially full program.
Good to know:
- Tickets for big names sell out fast, sometimes in just a few hours
- Sales usually open in late April on the official festival website
- Prices range from 15 EUR (about $16) to over 100 EUR (about $108) depending on the show and seating area
- Greek and English subtitles are provided for operas and tragedies
Opening hours
*Information subject to change
I discovered this monument during my visit to the Acropolis. It is not the best preserved part of the site, but the wall behind the stage is still impressive. On the other hand, the semi-circular tiers, which have been rebuilt, do not look authentic at all anymore. Unfortunately, to get inside, you absolutely have to buy a ticket for a show. It is a shame when you do not have the chance, because I imagine the acoustics are exceptional.