Visiting Veliko Tarnovo
As a lively city in central Bulgaria, Veliko Tarnovo serves as an ideal base to get a sense of the country. Encircled by three hills, the city resembles an amphitheater, with houses stacked against one another along the banks of the Yantra river. Once the capital of the Bulgarian kingdom, the city flourished during the Middle Ages. The ancient fortifications of the citadel, erected at the summit of Tsarevets Hill, remain the primary attraction.
A witness to Bulgarian history
The site of Veliko Tarnovo has been occupied for over 7,000 years. Inhabited by Thracian tribes followed by Roman settlements, the city was destroyed once during a Slavic invasion. In 1185, the Bulgarians broke free from the yoke of the Byzantine Empire. They chose Veliko Tarnovo as their capital and constructed the Tsarevets Citadel to house the royal court. The kingdom's independence was declared within the walls of the Church of Saint Demetrius by kings Petar and Assen. In honor of this victory, they also built the Church of the 40 Holy Martyrs, which serves as a Pantheon today.
Walking along rue Gurko, in the heart of the old town, you will find impressive views of the surrounding homes. Most were built in the 19th century, after Bulgaria declared its independence following centuries of Ottoman rule. Certain buildings are iconic examples of the period's architecture, such as the Hadzhi Nikoli Inn or the Sarafkina House, which adapts perfectly to the sloping terrain. It appears as a single story from the street side, but reveals four levels facing the river.
A destination in its own right
While still in the old town, take time to wander through rue Samovodskata Charshia, which is lined with small artisan shops and restaurants. The local cuisine is representative of Bulgaria. On the menu, you will find a plethora of hearty soups, pastries made with phyllo dough, and Rakija served as a digestif.
Use your time in Veliko Tarnovo to explore the surroundings. You will find numerous historical sites, such as the Transfiguration Monastery, located just 7 kilometers (about 4 miles) away. Do not miss the small town of Arbanasi. The interior of the Church of the Nativity of Christ is packed with religious frescoes. A bit further, you will find the Nicopolis ad Istrum archaeological reserve, which contains the ruins of a Roman city built by Emperor Trajan in 106 AD. Finally, hiking enthusiasts will enjoy the marked trail that winds through the Emenski Canyon.
When to go
Veliko Tarnovo is an ideal destination during the warmer months, from June to September. In the summer, the citadel is highlighted by a sound and light show.
How to get there
Trains run from Sofia or Varna to Gorna Oryahovitsa, a town located just 7 kilometers (about 4 miles) from Veliko Tarnovo. From there, you can rent a car, take a train, or hop on the No. 10 bus. Alternatively, many bus companies operate direct routes from Sofia to Veliko Tarnovo, with a travel time of three hours.
Medieval capital of Bulgaria. I preferred Tarnovo over Sofia. A very cute town on a mountainside, with streets that go in every direction. Not much to do aside from wandering the streets where you sometimes get a very pretty view of the rest of the city. There is also a church on a hill that is worth it, with a nice view and religious but modern paintings inside the church. Check the calendar because there is a magnificent sound and light show on certain evenings! Honestly, only the Old Town and Tzarevetz areas are worth it if you are not staying long.