Vielsalm, the Witch and Blueberry Capital in the Heart of the Belgian Ardennes
Every July 20th, hooked-nose witches with unruly hair take over this Walloon town. They hand over the town keys to Beelzebub himself in front of 2000 spectators who come out for the Sabbat des Macralles. The next day, people enjoy blueberry tarts while watching the national holiday floats roll by. This unique folklore captures the soul of Vielsalm, a destination where the wild nature of the Ardennes meets a lively, uninhibited local culture.
Vielsalm, Perfect for Nature Lovers and Local Folklore
This town of 8000 residents draws hikers, cyclists, and families looking for fresh air. The wooded hills, Lake Doyards, and proximity to the Baraque de Fraiture make it an ideal base camp for exploring the Upper Ardennes. Fans of popular culture will appreciate the museum dedicated to the Battle of the Bulge and the traditions tied to Walloon witches.
On the flip side, this is not the spot if you are looking for a lively nightlife scene or Michelin-starred restaurants. The downtown area remains modest, with a handful of shops and cafés. Visitors without a car will find their travel options limited when trying to reach the surrounding natural sites.
A Reasonable Budget for the Ardennes
Expect to pay between $90 and $135* per night for a proper guesthouse or hotel room. Meals at local restaurants run around $29 to $40* per person. Activities like mountain biking or winter skiing remain accessible, with gear rentals ranging from $17 to $34* a day.
Lake Doyards: The Town's Lungs
This 14-hectare body of water sits just below the main street. A 2-kilometer asphalt walking path circles the lake, fully accessible for strollers and wheelchairs. Picnic tables, outdoor fitness stations, and a modern playground line the route.
In the summer, a wooden bandstand on stilts hosts free concerts. Anglers show up at dawn to fish for trout. The atmosphere stays calm, far from the hustle and bustle of overcrowded tourist spots. The Vielsalm train station sits 100 meters from the lake, making it easy to arrive by train and hit the waterfront immediately.
Friendly tip: On Tuesday evenings from 4:00 PM to 7:00 PM, the small Flavors market sets up at Place Bruyères-en-Vosges. This is where local producers sell their cheeses, cured meats, and blueberry products.
Baraque de Fraiture: Sports and Panoramas at 652 Meters
This highest point in the province of Luxembourg sits 15 kilometers from the center. The resort features three downhill ski runs when snow cooperates, plus 21 kilometers of cross-country skiing trails. The rest of the year, the 25-hectare area transforms into a playground for mountain bikers and hikers.
The Mountaincart offers a fun alternative, letting you coast down the slope in a three-wheeled cart before taking the ski lift back up. Beginners and seasoned athletes alike find plenty to do on the marked trails crisscrossing the spruce forests. The view from the summit stretches far across the surrounding valleys.
History and Museums: From Sharpening Stones to Witches
The Musée du Coticule in Salmchâteau is worth the detour. This natural sharpening stone, quarried exclusively in the region, was once used to hone razors all over the world. You can still buy them for a few euros from baskets at the front desk. The visit explains the unique geology of the Stavelot massif, which contains some of the oldest rocks in Belgium.
The Maison du Pays de Salm features an archeoscope with an immersive film on local legends. Kids get their own adapted educational trail. The Bulge Relics Museum in Joubiéval exhibits World War II artifacts recovered from nearby battlefields.
The Macralles Folklore: A Living Tradition Since 1955
Legend has it that an old woman named Gustine Maka turned young people into witches after making them drink tcha-tcha, a nectar of crushed blueberries mixed with genever. Since 1955, a local folklore group has kept this story alive.
On the evening of July 20th, the Neurès Bièsses hold their sabbath at the Tienne-Messe site. They gossip about the past year in Walloon to their master, the Neûr Bo, who represents the devil in the form of a black goat. The sound and light show blends pyrotechnics, music, and dialect theater. French and Dutch translations help everyone follow along. The next day, the Blueberry Festival brings floats and marching bands parading through the streets.
Where to Eat and Drink in Vielsalm
Local food revolves around blueberries: tarts, jams, pastries, and above all, the Élixir de Myrtille produced by the local brotherhood. Craft beers from the Brasserie Detrembleur bear evocative names like Vieille Salme, Aurore de la Salme, and Myrtille d'Amélie.
The Adagio restaurant at the Hôtel Myrtilles serves French and regional cuisine in a family-friendly setting. For a quick stop, the cafés around the square serve toasted sandwiches and waffles. The Brasserie de Bellevaux, a few kilometers away on the road to Malmedy, is worth the trip for a tasting in a countryside setting.
Where to Stay In and Around Vielsalm
Downtown features two three-star hotels: the Hôtel Myrtilles with a free sauna and fitness room, and the Parkhotel Villa des Effats near the lake. The Les Doyards holiday village offers apartments and bungalows on the lakeshore with direct access to hiking trails.
The Center Parcs Les Ardennes makes a great family option with its cottages and subtropical water park. Independent guesthouses abound in nearby villages like Petit-Thier or Mont-le-Soie. For a romantic stay, the B&B Le Tapis Rouge offers rooms in a character home with background piano music.
Getting There and Getting Around Vielsalm
From Brussels, expect an hour and a half drive via the E411 and then the N4. Liège is an hour away via the E25. Paris is 4 hours and 20 minutes away via the A1 and A4. The Vielsalm train station, on the Liège-Luxembourg line, lets you arrive without a car. The downtown area and the lake are within walking distance from the platform.
A car remains essential for exploring the surrounding area. Baraque de Fraiture, the Coo waterfalls, and the High Fens all require a vehicle. Downtown parking is free. Electric bikes are available for rent to cruise the RAVeL, the 10-kilometer greenway connecting Vielsalm to Poteau.
When to go
July 20th and 21st are packed with the festivities of the Sabbat des Macralles and the Blueberry Festival. Summer offers the best conditions for hiking and mountain biking. In winter, ski enthusiasts keep an eye on snowfall at Baraque de Fraiture. The Noël sur Salm Christmas market brings the center to life in December. Skip the Belgian school vacation weekends if you are looking for peace and quiet.
