Vielsalm, the land of witches and blueberries in the heart of the Belgian Ardennes
Every July 20, hooked-nose witches with messy hair take over this small Walloon town. They hand over the keys to the city to Beelzebub himself, right in front of 2,000 spectators gathered for the Sabbat des Macralles. The next day, you can enjoy blueberry pie while watching the national holiday parade pass by. This unique folklore defines the spirit of Vielsalm, a destination where the wild nature of the Ardennes meets a lively, proud local culture.
Vielsalm, perfect for nature lovers and local folklore
This town of 8,000 residents draws hikers, cyclists, and families looking for fresh air. The wooded hills, the lac des Doyards, and the proximity of the Baraque de Fraiture make it an ideal base camp for exploring the Upper Ardennes. Fans of local history will appreciate the museum dedicated to the Battle of the Bulge and the traditions surrounding Walloon witches.
This is not your destination if you are looking for a wild nightlife or Michelin-starred dining. The town center is modest, with a handful of shops and cafes. Visitors without a car will be limited in their ability to reach the surrounding natural sites.
A reasonable budget for the Ardennes
Expect to pay between 80 and 120€ (about $85 to $130) per night for a gîte or a decent hotel room. Meals at local restaurants run around 25 to 35€ (about $27 to $38) per person. Activities like mountain biking or winter skiing are accessible, with equipment rentals between 15 and 30€ (about $16 to $32) per day.
The lac des Doyards: the town's lungs
This 14-hectare lake stretches out just below the main street. A 2-kilometer paved path circles the water, fully accessible for strollers and wheelchairs. Picnic tables, fitness stations, and a modern playground line the route.
In the summer, a wooden gazebo on stilts hosts free concerts. Anglers arrive to fish for trout at dawn. The atmosphere remains calm, far from the intensity of major tourist hotspots. The Vielsalm train station is just 100 meters from the lake, so you can arrive by train and reach the water immediately.
Local tip: On Tuesday evenings from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m., the small Marché des Saveurs takes place on the Place Bruyères-en-Vosges. This is where local producers sell their cheeses, cured meats, and blueberry-based goods.
The Baraque de Fraiture: sports and panoramas at 652 meters
This high point of the Luxembourg province is located 15 kilometers from the center. The station offers three downhill ski slopes when there is snow, plus 21 kilometers of cross-country trails. The rest of the year, the 25-hectare area transforms into a playground for mountain bikers and hikers.
The Mountaincart offers a fun alternative, where you head down the slope in a three-wheeled cart before taking the ski lift back up. Both beginners and experienced athletes find what they need on the marked trails that weave through the spruce forests. The view from the summit stretches far over the surrounding valleys.
History and museums: from whetstones to witches
The Musée du Coticule in Salmchâteau is worth a visit. This whetstone, extracted only in this region, was once used to sharpen razors around the world. You can still buy them for a few euros from baskets at the front desk. The tour explains the unique geology of the Stavelot massif, which contains some of the oldest rocks in Belgium.
The Maison du Pays de Salm features an archeoscope with an immersive film about local legends. There is a dedicated educational path for children. The Bulge Relics Museum in Joubiéval displays artifacts from the Battle of the Bulge recovered from local battlefields.
The Macralles folklore: a tradition alive since 1955
Legend has it that an old woman named Gustine Maka turned young people into witches after making them drink tcha-tcha, a nectar of crushed blueberries mixed with gin. Since 1955, a folklore group has kept this story alive.
On the evening of July 20, the Neurès Bièsses hold their sabbat at the Tienne-Messe site. They gossip in Walloon about the past year to their master, the Neûr Bo, a representation of the devil in the form of a black goat. The sound-and-light show mixes pyrotechnics, music, and dialect theater. Translations in French and Dutch allow everyone to follow along. The next day, the Fête des Myrtilles features floats and marching bands in the streets.
Where to eat and drink in Vielsalm?
The local menu revolves around blueberries, including pies, jams, pâtés, and especially the Élixir de Myrtille produced by the local brotherhood. The craft beers from the Brasserie Detrembleur carry evocative names like Vieille Salme, Aurore de la Salme, or Myrtille d'Amélie.
The Adagio restaurant at the Hôtel Myrtilles offers French and regional cuisine in a family-friendly setting. For a quick stop, the cafes around the square offer sandwiches and waffles. The Brasserie de Bellevaux, a few kilometers away on the road to Malmedy, is worth the detour for a tasting in a countryside setting.
Where to stay in and around Vielsalm?
The town center has two three-star hotels: the Hôtel Myrtilles with a free sauna and fitness center, and the Parkhotel Villa des Effats near the lake. The Les Doyards holiday village offers apartments and bungalows on the shores of the lake with direct access to hiking trails.
Center Parcs Les Ardennes is a family-friendly option with cottages and a subtropical water park. Independent gîtes abound in surrounding villages like Petit-Thier or Mont-le-Soie. For a romantic stay, the B&B Le Tapis Rouge offers rooms in a character house with piano music in the background.
How to get to and around Vielsalm?
From Brussels, expect a 1.5-hour drive via the E411 and then the N4. Liège is 1 hour away via the E25. Paris is 4 hours and 20 minutes away by the A1 and A4. The Vielsalm train station, on the Liège-Luxembourg line, allows you to arrive without a car. The town center and the lake are within walking distance from the platform.
A car remains essential for exploring the surroundings. The Baraque de Fraiture, the Coo waterfalls, or the High Fens require a vehicle. Parking in the center is free. Electric bikes can be rented to travel the RAVeL, the 10-kilometer greenway that connects Vielsalm to Poteau.
When to go?
July 20 and 21 are the dates for the Sabbat des Macralles and the Fête des Myrtilles. Summer offers the best conditions for hiking and mountain biking. In winter, ski enthusiasts keep an eye on snowfalls at the Baraque de Fraiture. The Noël sur Salm Christmas market livens up the center in December. Avoid Belgian school holiday weekends if you are looking for peace and quiet.
