Visiting Onomichi: Stairs, temples, and the Inland Sea
Located in Hiroshima Prefecture along the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi offers a quiet, vertical perspective on Japan. This small port city appeals to travelers looking to trade the high-speed energy of major metros for hillside strolls, dense temple clusters, and narrow residential alleys.
A city that climbs
Onomichi is defined by its steep slopes, stone staircases, and winding paths. The Temple Walk connects several ancient sanctuaries, including Senko-ji, which sits on a rocky promontory accessible by a short ropeway ride. The route is filled with wandering cats, small gardens, and lookouts over the city. Bring sturdy walking shoes and a water bottle, as some of the climbs are quite steep.
A port of tradition and nostalgia
The waterfront area is flat and carries the feel of a classic Japanese provincial town, complete with fishing boats, aging storefronts, and a pace that feels frozen in time. Onomichi Station sits right on the water, serving as the gateway to the downtown area. Nearby, you will find the Cinema Museum, an homage to director Yasujiro Ozu, who filmed several iconic scenes here. Walking along the seawall at sunset is a local favorite.
The start of the Shimanami Kaido
Onomichi serves as the starting or ending point for the Shimanami Kaido, a 70 km cycling route that crosses bridges between the islands of the Inland Sea all the way to Imabari. If you are not up for the full trek, the short ride across to Mukaishima island makes for a perfect half-day trip. You can rent bikes easily near the station.
Quiet alleys and low-key art
Beyond the main paths, Onomichi hides artist cafes, independent bookstores, and traditional tea houses. The Neko no Hosomichi (Cat Alley) area features craft workshops and whimsical sculptures. Away from the tourist spots, the city encourages you to slow down and look for the small details: a weathered lantern, a sleeping cat, or a temple half-hidden by foliage.
Local cuisine: Noodles and seafood
Onomichi is famous for its ramen, which features a clear broth made from small dried fish and pork. This dish, known as "Onomichi ramen," is prized for its deep umami flavor. You will also find takoyaki (octopus balls) and grilled seafood often served in small, family-run shops along the waterfront.
Where to eat?
- Shukaen (downtown): One of the oldest ramen-ya in town and a local staple.
- Tori no Sato (near the station): Simple, flavorful yakitori in a no-frills setting.
- U2 Yard Cafe (port): A modern space inside a former warehouse, serving updated local specialties.
Where to stay?
- Green Hill Hotel Onomichi (port): A classic hotel with sea views, located within walking distance of the station and restaurants.
- Hotel Cycle (port): A sleek, design-forward hotel geared toward cyclists, known for its quiet and modern rooms.
- Sakura Hotel Onomichi (center): A budget-friendly option with friendly staff and clean, functional rooms.
When to go?
Spring (March to May) is ideal for cherry blossoms, especially around Senko-ji temple. Autumn (October-November) offers great foliage in the hills. Avoid July and August, which are often hot and humid with a risk of typhoons.
How to get there?
From Hiroshima, Onomichi is about a 90-minute local train ride (1,500¥/about $10). From Osaka, take the shinkansen to Fukuyama (1 hour 15 minutes) and then transfer to a local train for 30 minutes. There is no major airport in the immediate vicinity.
Getting around
The center is easily walkable. For the islands or the cycling route, rent a bike at the station. Local buses serve the more peripheral areas.
Onomichi is a port city near Hiroshima. While it is not a must-see, it still offers a nice moment. I recommend walking along the Cat Alley where several temples follow one after another and where the felines wander about. You can also stroll along the port and sit on the benches. A moment of calm and a breath of fresh air.