Varanasi, where life and death stare each other down
It is 5 a.m. The sun has not yet broken through the mist clinging to the Ganges. Even so, the ghats are already thick with movement. Pilgrims submerge themselves in the sacred water, a barber shaves a head right on the stone steps, and funeral pyres crackle as a procession heads toward the river. Just a few feet away, children fly kites. This raw collision of the sacred and the mundane, of death and play, is the true essence of Varanasi. There is no other city like it on earth.
An experience that is not for everyone
Varanasi is not a typical vacation destination. This city of three million is the spiritual capital of India, one of the most sacred places in Hinduism. The open-air cremations, the scent of sandalwood mixing with the river air, the constant wall of sound, and the visible poverty can be deeply destabilizing. Travelers seeking spirituality, fans of ancient cultures, and photographers will find an endless supply of material here.
This city is not for those who prioritize comfort or cleanliness. The Ganges has pollution levels that defy belief, the narrow alleys are crowded with cows and waste, and scams wait on every corner. But if you are willing to let go of your expectations, Varanasi will leave a mark on you. Plan for at least two full days to absorb the shock and begin to understand it.
India at the lowest price
Varanasi remains one of the most budget-friendly destinations in India. A decent room near the ghats costs between 500 and 1500 INR (about $6 to $18) per night. A hearty street food meal runs 50-100 INR (about $0.60 to $1.20). A boat ride on the Ganges is usually negotiated for around 150-200 INR (about $1.80 to $2.40) per person, though boatmen often try to ask tourists for 500 INR (about $6).
The ghats: 84 stairways to the sacred
The word ghat refers to the massive stone stairways that descend into the river. Varanasi has 84 of them, spread over nearly 4 miles along the left bank of the Ganges. Each has its own history, often linked to a king or patron who commissioned it to gain good karma. The classic route runs from Assi Ghat in the south to Manikarnika Ghat in the north. It is a 2-mile walk, but it takes several hours if you stop to watch the world go by.
Dashashwamedh Ghat is the beating heart of the city. Legend has it that Brahma sacrificed ten horses here. Today, it is the site of the nightly Ganga Aarti, a ritual of fire and prayer honoring the river. Priests handle giant oil lamps while the crowd chants and places flower offerings on the water. The spectacle begins around 6:30 p.m. and lasts for half an hour.
Friendly tip: The Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh draws massive crowds. For a more intimate experience, head to Tulsi Ghat or Assi Ghat, where similar ceremonies take place in a less touristy atmosphere.
Cremations: the great crossing
Every day, about 200 bodies are cremated on the banks of the Ganges in Varanasi. For Hindus, dying here allows one to break the cycle of reincarnation and reach moksha, or spiritual liberation. This is why families travel across India to accompany their loved ones on this final journey. Manikarnika Ghat, the largest cremation site, operates 24/7.
The pyres burn constantly. It takes about 400 kg of sandalwood to consume a body, and everything has a price: the type of wood, the location of the pyre, and the services of the priest. Women do not attend the cremation, as their tears might hold the soul of the deceased on earth. Children under ten, pregnant women, and sadhus are not burned but are instead directly immersed in the river, as they are already considered pure.
Friendly tip: Photographing the cremations is strictly forbidden and deeply disrespectful. If someone offers to guide you toward the pyres in exchange for money for wood, it is a common scam. Observe from a distance, in silence, or from a boat in the middle of the river.
The old town: a 3,000-year-old labyrinth
Behind the ghats lies a maze of alleys so narrow they are called galis. Shops are packed in, temples appear at every intersection, and cows often block the path. Getting lost is part of the experience. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva, is the most sacred in the city. Its dome is covered in 800 kg of gold and shines above the rooftops. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main sanctuary, but the atmosphere in the surrounding streets is worth the visit.
The Saint-Patern district, named by colonists, corresponds to the site of the city founded in the 7th century BC. The streets still bear the names of ancient trades. Thatheri Bazaar brings together copper and brass artisans. For silk saris embroidered with gold, head to the Vishwanath Gali market.
Sarnath: the Buddha's first sermon
6 miles from Varanasi, Sarnath is one of the four most sacred places in Buddhism. This is where the Buddha delivered his first teaching after attaining enlightenment in Bodh Gaya. The Dhamekh Stupa, 111 feet tall, marks the exact location of that sermon. The Archaeological Museum houses the famous Lion Capital of Ashoka, which became the national emblem of India.
Sarnath offers a striking contrast to the chaos of Varanasi. The gardens are peaceful, and Buddhist monks meditate in silence. It is the perfect excursion to catch your breath after the intensity of the ghats.
Where to eat and drink in Varanasi?
Street food reigns supreme. Kashi Chaat Bhandar, on Dashashwamedh Road, serves aloo tikki and dahi puri that draw lines stretching into the street. The lassis of Varanasi are legendary: thick, creamy, and sometimes spiked with bhang, a cannabis-based preparation that is tolerated in this religious context but should be consumed with caution.
For a sit-down meal with a river view, Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe near Assi Ghat offers decent international food and terraces overlooking the water. Rooftops are popping up all over the old town. Look for those facing the ghats at sunset. Benarasi Dum Aloo, a dish of spiced, slow-cooked potatoes, is a local specialty you must try.
Where to stay in Varanasi and the surrounding area?
You have two main options. The Assi Ghat area, in the south, attracts travelers looking for relative quiet. There are plenty of cafes and yoga classes, and the vibe is more relaxed than in the center. Ganges Grand and Sri Omkar Palace offer clean rooms with river views.
To be in the heart of the action, choose accommodation near Dashashwamedh Ghat. Family guesthouses are everywhere, often in old buildings with dizzying staircases. Ganpati Guest House has a terrace restaurant overlooking the Ganges. Note that the alleys are a labyrinth, so have your hotel staff guide you when you first arrive.
How to get to and around Varanasi?
Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport is 15 miles from the center. Direct flights connect Delhi, Mumbai, and Bangalore several times a day. Plan for about an hour for the transfer to the ghats, sometimes longer depending on traffic. The train from Delhi takes between 8 and 12 hours depending on the line, with departures from Anand Vihar or New Delhi Station.
In the city, forget motor vehicles to explore the old town as the alleys are too narrow. A rickshaw or tuk-tuk will drop you off at the entrance to the historic quarter. After that, everything is done on foot. For the ghats, rent a rowboat early in the morning or at the end of the day. Negotiate the price firmly before getting on.
When to go?
The best time to visit is from October to March, when temperatures hover between 41°F and 77°F. The Indian winter allows you to walk the ghats without suffocating. The Dev Diwali festival, held fifteen days after Diwali, lights up the Ganges with thousands of lamps, a stunning sight. Avoid the monsoon from June to September, when the river level rises dangerously and boat trips become impossible.
In this city, many pilgrims come to purify themselves in the Ganges, await their death, or accompany a loved one in theirs. To understand the cremation rites, I recommend hiring a guide. There are plenty of things to see, like the old city with its dark, colorful alleyways, as well as temples on every street corner. Not to be missed: the Aarti ceremony, which takes place in the evening at sunset on the ghats.