Cuzco at a Glance
Often treated as just a mandatory stopover on the way to Machu Picchu, Cuzco is frequently rushed through by travelers who treat it as a mere transit point. Yet the former capital of the Inca Empire holds deep cultural and historical weight. Giving Cuzco more than just a quick glance is essential.
A Journey Through Time Between Colonial Heritage and Ancient Tradition
It takes only a few steps to feel transported back to the 16th century. Sitting at 3 350 metres above sea level, the city demands respect for altitude sickness. To get a real feel for the local atmosphere, head straight to Plaza de Armas, the beating heart of Cuzco where locals and travelers cross paths in a constant stream of daily life. Take time to tour the imposing baroque Cathedral of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, founded in 1559 by the Spanish.
If the downtown noise gets to you, visit Qorikancha (The Temple of the Sun), which stands as a striking example of the collision between Spanish conquistadors and Inca culture. Archaeological sites are everywhere around here. If you want two standout locations under 10 kilometres from Cuzco, head out to Pucapucara fortress and Sacsayhuaman. For something less conventional, check out the secret valley of Moray, where stepped agricultural terraces served as an experimental crop lab for the scientifically advanced Incas. Cuzco operates as an open-air museum, but for an even deeper dive, stop by the Inca Museum right in the center of town.
Cuzco, Mirror of the Peruvian Soul
Cuzco captures the essence of Peruvian life. Even though economic power shifted to Lima, this city remains an extraordinary place to experience daily culture. To see that energy firsthand, walk through San Pedro Market near Plaza de Armas and browse for an authentic Peruvian poncho, handcrafted ceramics, or stalls stacked with fragrant spices and vibrant fresh fruit. The best way to understand the rhythm of Cuzco is simply to wander the narrow, picturesque streets of the historic district.
Venture away from the heavy tourist corridors and climb into San Blas neighborhood to take in classic Peruvian architecture. Perched on the slopes above the city, this district draws artists, musicians, and lively gatherings. If you are chasing a view, hike up to the viewpoint at Plaza San Cristobal for a wide-open panorama over the Andean peaks and the rooftops sprawling below.
When to Go
Cuzco enjoys a temperate climate that makes visits possible throughout the year. Keep in mind that heavy crowds arrive during peak travel periods, so planning around the high season months of July, August, and December will make for a quieter experience.
Getting There
Cuzco's airport has frequent connections to Lima, the country's capital. Lima is served nonstop from Miami, Houston, Atlanta, New York and Los Angeles, with Miami to Lima taking under six hours; round-trip fares run around $790*. Peru also has an extensive bus network, making it straightforward to reach the city by road, including from the Bolivian border.
Cusco is a must-see city in Peru. During my first visit in 2009, it was still a pretty dark city and not very recommended in the evening. Now, the city is much more lively and safe for tourists. The Plaza de Armas is well restored, just like the hilly San Blas neighborhood. I also really liked the San Pedro market.
Cusco is a good break on an itinerary that is generally tiring with the altitude and so on. You can also taste cuy and drink pisco sours in Cusco before heading back up to higher altitudes.