Visiting Zacatecas, a silver city with deep colonial roots
The state capital of Zacatecas sits at a high altitude in northern Mexico. Known for its extensive mining history and a remarkably well-preserved historic center, the city offers an authentic feel far removed from typical tourist circuits. Between its cobblestone alleys, ornate baroque monuments, and stark, arid landscapes, it is a rewarding destination for travelers looking to see a different side of Mexico.
A UNESCO-listed historic center
The heart of Zacatecas is its UNESCO-recognized historic center. Avenida Hidalgo acts as the main artery through the old town, lined with colonial-era architecture. The most striking structure is the Zacatecas Cathedral, an 18th-century baroque masterpiece with a facade so intricately carved it feels more like lace than stone. A short walk away, the Palacio de Gobierno features murals that detail the region's complex history.
El Eden Mine: an underground journey
Zacatecas built its wealth on silver extraction, which transformed the city starting in the 16th century.
The El Eden mine is now a museum that offers a direct look at that legacy. You reach the tunnels via a small underground train, followed by a guided tour through the galleries where you learn the realities of life for the original miners. At night, part of the mine switches gears to become a nightclub, providing a surreal experience in an subterranean setting.
Panoramic views from Cerro de la Bufa
Towering over the city, Cerro de la Bufa is the go-to spot for a panoramic look at Zacatecas and the surrounding high desert. You can reach the summit on foot or via the teleferico (cable car). The peak also hosts a small museum dedicated to the Mexican Revolution and a religious sanctuary. For those with more time, you can follow the ruta de la plata, a trail that traces the old silver transport route.
Museums and local culture
Zacatecas has a sophisticated museum scene. The Rafael Coronel Museum is housed in a former convent and displays an immense collection of traditional Mexican masks. For fine art, the Pedro Coronel Museum holds pieces by Picasso, Miro, and Dali. Finally, the Francisco Goitia Museum focuses on paintings by Zacatecan artists, offering a window into the regional identity.
Flavors rooted in tradition
The gastronomy here reflects the hearty, spice-forward palate of northern Mexico. Asado de boda, a pork stew simmered in a rich, spicy red sauce, is the region's signature dish. For dessert, look for queso de tuna, a sweet specialty made from prickly pear fruit. If you are looking for a drink to pair with your meal, try the local mezcal as an alternative to tequila.
Where to eat?
- Los Dorados de Villa (Center): A reliable spot for traditional asado de boda in a classic setting.
- La Taberna Del Minero (Center): A welcoming tavern serving regional staples and artisanal mezcal.
- Gorditas Doña Julia (Center): Your best bet for house-made gorditas, a popular local street food staple.
- Acropolis Cafe (Center): A historic brasserie that offers a prime terrace view over the main square.
Where to stay?
- Quinta Real Zacatecas (Center): A unique hotel built into the shell of an old bullfighting arena.
- Hotel Meson de Jobito (Center): An elegant property centered around a beautiful interior courtyard.
- Santa Rita Hotel (Center): A high-end option situated just steps from the cathedral.
- Mision Argento Zacatecas (Center): A solid choice that balances comfort and value.
When to go?
Zacatecas has a semi-arid climate, meaning plenty of sun year-round. The best time to visit is from March to November, when the weather is consistently pleasant. The biggest local event is the Feria Nacional de Zacatecas in September, which brings a week of concerts and cultural programming to the city.
How to get there?
Zacatecas International Airport handles domestic flights from Mexico City and Monterrey. If you are driving, expect about 6 hours from Mexico City and 4 hours from Guadalajara. Long-distance buses also run frequently to the city from most major Mexican metropolises.
How to get around?
The city center is compact and easily navigated on foot. For trips to sites like Cerro de la Bufa, taxis and local buses are efficient. The teleferico, which connects the upper city to the center, is a practical way to bypass the hills while getting a view of the architecture.
I was lucky enough to arrive in Zacatecas during the cultural festival, over Holy Week and Easter week. There were concerts and dancing in the city streets.
Zacatecas is also worth the trip for its many art museums, its colonial past and numerous churches, its silver mines, and the La Quemada archaeological site which is not very far away.